Settings > Display > Theme: Dark / Light (NVS mc_ui/light). The colour
tokens are set once before anything is built, so a change restarts the
device. Text on an accent fill is the new ON_ACCENT (it was BG, white
in the light theme); each accent has a deeper hand-picked light variant
that reads on white and takes white text. The map's empty-tile fill and
grid and the areas' outlines follow the theme too.
Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5.5 <noreply@anthropic.com>